Photo Vomit Episode 1: Cinque Terre

So I could write about what I did this weekend, but I could also just post a series of photos and save everyone some time:

The Town of Manarola in Cinque Terre.  

The town of Manarola near the part of the path to the next town that was closed off due to landslides.

The town of Manarola from someone's private property. Ended up here after attempting to find a detour path to the next town. 

Taken from the correct detour path

A town of Cinque Terre in the distance from a hiking path. 

One of the towns of Cinque Terre

Where I took a swim in the Mediterranean 

In all, I hiked about seven or so miles, much of which was on an incline. The hiking paths offered beautiful views of the surrounding natural area and small touristy towns. The towns, though pretty, contained too many tourists to really be enjoyed. At the end of the hike, I took a dip in the ocean which, unlike the brutally frigid Pacific, was quite warm and refreshing.

Cameron in Disguise with Buttons/I Me Murse

Walking through Florence every day, I never cease to find something unique and gorgeous. Everywhere the age shows through in a thoroughly beautiful way, as Florence seems to be a remarkably well kept look into the past. The architecture, art, and numerous museums convey sense of history, which attacks the senses as strongly as the large collection of dog shit on the streets during a warm day.

Yes, though the city is undeniably impressive (see previous post), the amount of animal feces leads my personal list in detractors. Indeed, I have developed a sixth sense for avoiding this rather impressive collection of decaying matter lying about the narrow sidewalks. I'm happy to report that my feet have successfully dodged an unpleasant surprise left by one of the many quadrupedal members of Florence, but regretfully inform all that my nostrils have not been so fortunate.

But fecal matter does not stand as the sole depreciation of Florentine grandeur. Tourists are inescapable this time of year. Like the plague, i turisti brutti surround the city and cause locals to flee to the countryside. Indeed, to examine the Doors of Paradise near the Duomo near midday during tourist season, one should be prepared to wade through 300 Americans, 200 Germans, and maybe 2 or 3 Italians who only wanted to take a shortcut to the park (joke credit Marcello Bellini).

As such, I've taken it upon myself to look as local as possible in the short time I've been here. Some basic rules are easy: Don't speak English loud enough for everyone within 50 meters to hear, avoid "I <3 Firenze" t-shirts, don't travel in large groups, etc... But perhaps the most effective and simple solution to looking local involved less effort than usual.

My style of dress isn't uncommon here. Jeans and a button up shirt seem pretty standard fare. On closer inspection though, nearly every Italian man wears their shirt unbuttoned at least two buttons. Additionally the murse is quite the accessory in Florence. Nearly every man in Florence has one. I have adjusted appropriately and now proudly a carry a totally masculine and pragmatic man-bag. So, by simply leaving one more button undone than I normally would and slinging a bag over my shoulder, I have succeeded in fooling more than a few people (commencing ego building). Several people now have approached me for directions, usually speaking Italian. This includes tourists as well as other Italians (realistically not from Florence). Sure, I've only been able to help two of these people, but the fact that they believe in my Italianness up until my "Non capisco" or "Non lo so" serves as a point of pride for me. 

 But enough words, here's some photos from my recent trip to Siena (Photo credit Georgina Coffey):

Il Duomo di Siena from a distance

The tower of il Palazzo Publico in Siena from il Campo

Il Campo

The facade of il Duomo di Firenze

Some of the floor art from the usually covered floor in il Duomo

More floor art

A pulpit inside il Duomo

A view down a street in Siena

Overall, Siena is smaller and less grand than Florence, but it's distinct lack of tourists and poop combined with a picturesque verticality unknown in Florence make it worth seeing.

At Long Last...

*Edited 16 September 2011, 4:08 p.m.*

I know you've all been anxiously awaiting any sort of anything. Well here it is.

I've been in Italy for about 3 weeks now. Here's a quick summary:

• Arrival in Italy, no sleep for first 36 hours
• Cartoonishly idiotic, loud, misogynist roommate in hotel
• "Do you think I should've used a converter for those speakers"
• "The breakfast here better not be some bullshit Continental breakfast, they need to get off their fuckin' asses and cook us some real food"
• No internet, no computer, no camera
• Kind Peruvian man in internet cafe
• Medieval/Renaissance frescos, architecture everywhere
• Comfortable, cheap apartment with Italian students
• Cafe, gelato, pasta, pizza, panini, etc...
• Replacement laptop

And now I'm here.

So as much as I try not to be a typical, food-obsessed American, I cannot help but mention the food here. In short, the produce is local, delicious, and economical. I have been mostly living on peaches, pears, plums, and the like because of this. Even with the poor Dollar-Euro exchange rate, I'm saving tons of money on food. Because of this, I am experimenting with going vegetarian (pescatarian?). Two of my roommates and one of the other Californians from the program are vegetarian, further easing any transition. Updates on how that goes to follow. 

But I haven't just eaten at home. I've also tried some panini, some pasta, a few slices of pizza, plenty of gelato, and more than my share of espresso. It's all been delicious and totally incomparable to anything in the States. Particularly the coffee, which is stronger and more flavorful than American style coffee. I have benefited greatly from a roommate with a Southern Italian background and penchant for cafe moka.

 Though sitting and eating restaurant-style meals here costs too much to do almost ever, taking things to go or eating standing has proven affordable. Special shout outs to I Fratellini for their memorable panini, Il Procopia for their award-winning gelato, and Pugi for their fresh pizza. The keynote dining experience so far though came during a 3.5 hour eating session in the small Tuscan village of San Gimignano.

First of 5 courses from the post-Siena, San Gimignano feast. Photo credit Maggie Larimer. 

My God. This was, without a doubt, the most food I've eaten in one sitting. Ever. Well, excluding perhaps the 3 pound sushi challenge. This true Tuscan-style meal came after a day long trip to Siena, and seemed as if it never would end. Crostini and bruschetta, then more crostini, then soup, then meats, so many meats, and finally tiramisu. Nobody can do this more than once a season.

But enough about food!

Let me just share some scenery. Words won't do it justice, and neither will these pictures. It'll have to do:
(Disclaimer: though I haven't taken many of these photos, I've shared the view in person with the photographers)

The facade of the Duomo di Firenze. Restored ca. 18th century. Photo credit Maggie Larimer.

Arc in Piazza della Liberta. Photo credit Maggie Larimer.

Lo Spedale degli Innocenti, a former orphanage, in Piazza della Santissima Annunziata. Constructed early 15th Century. 

Il Duomo di Firenze down the street from Piazza Annunziata. Constructed early 15th century.  Photo credit Maggie Larimer.

On the left, la Basilica di Santa Croce, burial place of Machiavelli,  Michelangelo, and Galileo. On the right, the tower of il Palazzo Vecchio, constructed 16th century.  Photo credit Maggie Larimer.

Firenze at night from Piazza Michelangelo. (From left to right) Il Ponte Vecchio, il Palazzo Vecchio, and il Duomo all prominent here. Photo credit Maggie Larimer.

I have a collection of pictures from Siena, but I am getting tired of doing this at the moment, so they will be up later.

Overall, beautiful vistas are not hard to come by here.

On another note, I have a follow up from my previous post.

Italy isn't known for being a progressive, civil rights oriented state, but I have gathered some interesting facts in conversations with my Italian roommates. In regards to women's rights, women in Italy surprisingly have the right to choose an abortion during the first trimester of pregnancy. This is, as we know, a hot topic in the States and unknown in many states. This right, along with the right for a woman to initiate a divorce, came during a liberal wave of thought in the 1970's. This liberal tendency has reversed in more recent years. Though Italy lags behind most other nations not too preoccupied with rebellion, famine, or crippling poverty in women's rights, they are surprisingly liberal here. Italy does not allow same-sex marriage either. Many states (including California) disallow same-sex marriage or restrict it, but most allow domestic partnerships. Italy has no domestic partnerships either. This becomes even worse when considering the prohibition of adoption for anyone, heterosexual or homosexual, outside of marriage. Overall, Italy seems rather more conservative leaning.

This is not to say that there is no liberal impetus among Italians though. Florence is (unexpectedly) full of graffiti, most political in nature. Communists, anarchists, and even neo-fascists have a strong presence and tag their respective symbols all around Florence. The following are from the same tagger, an anarchist, on the same street nearby Santa Croce:

In English: "The degradation is the politicians - do not suck our blood"

In English: "If you grow free, you will live free"

In English: "Renzi (is) true degradation". In reference to the Florentine mayor, Matteo Renzi.

In English: "The smile of our children will be our revenge"

Here is an example of something more artistic:

Nearby Piazza Della Republica. Photo credit Georgina Coffey.

Feel free to skype me or contact me some other way to learn more about anything you've read here. I'm sure I forgot a ton, but so it goes.

Arrividerci!